파말이와 파김치(2017 년)
Scallion Wraps and Scallion Kimchi (2017)
When I woke up in the morning, I felt a dull, throbbing pain under the nail of my right thumb.
Looking closely, I saw the nail was chipped—just about 1–2 mm—and there was a small gap.
It was a little injury I got while trimming scallions on Sunday afternoon.
Too trivial to even call a wound, and yet, it kept bothering me.
That Sunday morning, my wife harvested scallions from our garden—
the ones we had planted the year before.
She brought in a generous basketful,
scallions that had bravely survived the harsh winter.
When she said she'd make pa-mari (scallion wraps) for dinner,
my mouth immediately began to water.
The neat rolls of green and white scallions,
paired with the vibrant red of vinegar gochujang (Korean chili dipping sauce),
the fresh, sharp scent of scallions,
and imagining the sweet, sour, slightly bitter and spicy flavors
that come with dipping them into the sauce and taking a bite—
that alone filled me with energy.
"I'm alive!" I thought.
Just the promise of scallion wraps from my wife
sent fresh oxygen flowing through my body,
mixing with the blue-green blood in my veins,
making me feel newly born.
But then—disappointment.
It was one simple sentence from my wife:
“Help me trim the scallions.”
We had just returned to our Brooklyn apartment that afternoon,
and I was about to rest.
But her words drained the strength from my body—
like Samson after losing his hair.
Usually, my wife handles everything herself—cooking, cleaning,
all the household chores.
So when she asked me to trim scallions with her,
I’ll admit, I felt a flicker of irritation.
I'd woken up at 4:30 AM and even played soccer that day—
I was exhausted.
In the morning, she had given me a multivitamin.
Now, in the afternoon, she handed me a prescription for labor.
If only the order had been reversed…
Still, I reluctantly said yes.
My wife doesn’t even eat scallions or onions.
She was making pa-mari and scallion kimchi just for me—
how could I refuse? I had no excuse. No honor.
"Trim off the roots and peel the purple skin.
Oh, and don’t forget to cut off the wilted ends," she instructed.
The injury on my thumb came from trying to remove the roots with my nails.
Ten minutes into it, I was already drained.
I mimicked my third daughter Sunyoung’s tone and muttered,
“I don’t even like scallion wraps!”
That made my wife burst into laughter.
Whenever our quiet daughter Sunyoung says,
“Sunyoung doesn’t like X,”
we never push further.
That’s it. Situation closed. Period.
No room for negotiation.
Trimming scallions was neither fun nor satisfying.
The repetitive, tedious work was getting to me.
So I borrowed Sunyoung’s style to express it.
My wife got the message loud and clear.
I couldn’t understand why we had to do all this
just for a few scallion wraps.
I was on the verge of losing my temper.
“Forget it, I won’t eat them.”
Then she said,
“This is what women do at home every day.”
That one sentence—spoken through laughter—
hit me straight in the heart.
Thirty-five years of feeding and clothing her husband and children—
her daily life had been this kind of work, over and over again.
As I touched each scallion, peeling and trimming it gently,
the task I’d thought impossible slowly came to an end.
My wife quickly began preparing dinner
and invited my two sisters-in-law to join us.
The meal was simple:
bean sprout stew, pa-mari, garlic chive pancakes, and kimchi.
But it was warm, delicious, and full of love.
The garlic chives for the pancakes had been carefully prepared
by my mother-in-law back in Arizona,
so her sons-in-law could enjoy them.
Although she herself can’t eat green vegetables anymore
due to kidney issues,
she still tends her garden for her children.
Trimming the scallions started off with frustration
but ended in joy.
Seeing my sisters-in-law and their husbands
gathered around the table, happily enjoying the meal—
all my irritation melted away.
All that remained on the empty table
was a heap of joy, like salt left behind in the salt fields.
“Farming is the foundation of the world.”
The scallions we planted last year took root in the soil,
drawing nutrients from the earth,
soaking up sunshine and rain from the sky,
growing until they finally made it to our dinner table.
It is through the grace of the heavens and the earth,
and through human labor,
that they became our food—our very flesh and blood.
Thus, farming is a sacred collaboration
between heaven, earth, and humankind—
a holy act of love.
The scallions I helped trim—at the cost of a sore thumb—
made everyone happy at dinner.
Though I was too tired to stay up,
my wife remained in the kitchen late into the night,
doing the dishes and using the leftover scallions to make kimchi.
Scallion kimchi she made just for me,
fighting off sleep,
even though she wouldn’t eat it herself.
Scallion kimchi, aged with her tiredness and love—
I now find myself sneaking glances at the fridge,
lips smacking with anticipation,
hoping no one catches me.
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